Hearted Youtube comments on Endless Money Pits (@EndlessMoneyPits) channel.

  1. My personal experience with oil changes is to take whatever the manufacturer says and divide that by 2 seems to do the trick.
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  2. In my former life I was a lubrication engineer (tribologist).   Particles in nature are usually of negative electronic charge and tend to 'clump' together (agglomerate) into larger and larger sized particles ... based on time. Most engines made earlier than about 2010 are built upon the 20 µM (micrometers) specification - defining the MOST DAMAGING PARTICLE SIZE in an internal combustion engine; many of the newer designed engines have a lesser/smaller sized particles-in-oil specification.   Modern lubricating oils have added detergent, a chemical compound that alters the electronic surface characteristics of the particles. Such Detergents become 'used up' based on the time the oil is in service/operation. Secondly, the more modern engines have 'weaker' (less springy) piston rings (done to artificially improve gas milage). This allows MORE blow-by of the piston rings (and oil) to become 'settled' and deposited as 'carbon' behind and on the wrong side the piston rings and IN the ring grooves ('lands') of the piston. This build up of carbon can promote ring sticking (or 'stuck rings') leading to adverse cylinder wall wear, The remedy is: 1. if the vehicle is driven predominately at normal steady state, highway speeds, with the cruise contol engaged, with little stop & go intervals in between .... consider to change oil and 'quality' oil filter AT (or before) the manufacturers recommended change-out recommendations 2. If predominantly in stop and go conditions, and you're always accelerating and decelerating (aggressively) .... consider to change the oil at **HALF** the recommended interval to help ensure that your piston rings dont become stuck due to carbon build up in the piston ring grooves. Constant oil changeout - ON TIME , .... (or at half time intervals for 'stop and go') - ...... is VASTLY CHEAPER than an engine rebuild or 'new' vehicle.   For myself I typically get 200 - 300k+ miles out of a well made engine. (FWIW - I never buy a new design 'engined' vehicle, until it proves itself to be itself in *long term* driving conditions to be long-term-reliable). Lastly, avoid 'beating' the engine with rapid acceleration/deceleration, 'especially' including those times when the engine is BELOW normal operating TEMPERATURES. Hope this helps. ;-)
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  3. I always do my oil changes at 5-7k miles and I’m glad to see I was right in my suspicions.
    733
  4. I send off a used oil sample to Blackstone Labs with every oil change on each of my vehicles. One of them has always been only a weekend fun machine since it was new 22 years ago. For the past several years, it has seen less than 300 miles per year. The last time I changed the oil after the car had been driven less than 1500 miles - over a 5 YEAR period. The analysis confirmed my belief that oil just sitting in the oil pan of a parked car DOES NOT degrade significantly over time. All values were still well within spec.
    490
  5. I recently had an oil analysis performed by LN Engineering and while the ppm of all elements examined were in the good range, they encouraged doing a “dual” sample test in the future (sending a bottle of the brand new, unused oil before it went in along with one when it came out 5,000 miles later) in order to know the exact levels of all the original additives, etc. before and after. They said this gives an more accurate picture of what the engine is doing.
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  6. In order to decide on oil change intervals, you have to consider your driving conditions. The deterioration of the oil is dependent on how many cold starts you perform, and on whether the engine is run up to operating temp each time you run it. If you tend to run short errands with a delay between trips, your oil will deteriorate more quickly. During warm-up, acid and water vapor is created during this period. If you get the engine all the way up to temp, most of the water vapor evaporates and blows out the tailpipe. The acid that occurs during the warm-up process just collects in the oil, contaminating it. Also a consideration is whether you do much driving in excessively dusty conditions. To simplify all this, if you drive 200 miles on the highway, your engine will get more wear during the first 2 minutes of warm-up than it will during the 200 miles of driving. All of these factors are why it is difficult to have a single hard and fast rule about intervals. Also, if you are using synthetic oil, it is more resistant to deterioration. Also, if your engine is turbocharged, this is very hard on the oil, much like the effects of large amounts of steroids on a human body. If you talk to a mechanic, they will invariably tell you that turbocharged engines nearly always have a shorter life than non-turbo versions of the same engine. A engine -oil analysis is a really good way to measure the best interval for oil changes for your own type of driving, but it doesn't tell you much about your neighbor who has a different pattern of use. BILL
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  7. I change the oil not for the car but for my ' mental health ' win win.😅.
    192
  8. If oil has twice the dirt inside at 10k miles compared to 5k miles, it means that oil is doing its job just as good at 10k miles. But, since there's more dirt in it at 10k, it's more abrasive on engine components. Oil isn't going bad, it's just getting dirty. Means it's good oil.
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  9. Many tests have shown that the cheaper Walmart Brand Super Tech full synthetic oil is as good & sometimes better than any other oil,... I think cheaper oil changed more often is better than high end oil taken to limits.
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  10. You will NEVER hurt an engine by putting fresh oil and filter . NEVER . I do every 5000 kms . Cheap and fun .
    135
  11. Changing the oil is one of the most satisfying feelings
    130
  12. (part 1 and 2) excellent videos and well taught study. On older japanese cars (1989 and 2001) I used to do the non-synthetic oil changes every 8000-11000km, all my 4 engines (including 3 turbo engines) did not have any issues and made it to 300 000+km being red lined intelligently everyday.
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  13. After all my research, I have settled on 10,000km interval with full synthetic. I have also adjusted the intervals to match multiple of 10s on odometer, easy to remember. My next change is at 240,000km 😊
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  14. ​ @Globetrotter-1  lol waat?
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  15. I would say it depends very much on your environment. In a hot dusty desert area you want to change more often. Also the oil type is different between hot desert or cold arctic temperatures.
    91
  16. Once again, great, detailed, short and sweet video. I personally go by mileage, i don't think these modern day fully synthetic oils are really affected by time, it's the use that wears them down. I just wish the previous owners of cars I've bought used serviced them more regularly than the manufacturers mileage guidelines because if everyone did 7,500 intervals from the start, a majority of engines would make it to 200k+ quite easily. Cars I've owned where previous owners did regular oil changes were always in better health imo.
    91
  17. Very interesting! I agree with this in general but looking at engine oil analysis almost every day I have noticed something I don’t like, even during the short intervals. There is lots of copper present which is usual for M52 and M54 engines. I see this on oil samples of M52/54 engines regularly. The copper value is even higher than iron and there is already lead from the bearings visible! In my experience, these engines can use a slightly higher viscosity oil. A 5W-40 with a higher HTHS-Value can make life easier for the bearings. Personally I tend to recommend oils with an HTHS of 4.0-4.5 mPas for these engines in 5W-40 or 0W-40 viscosity at an interval of up to 6,000 miles / 10,000 km depending on driving conditions. According to these analysis a longer interval of up to 7500 miles should be fine for you. Impressive mileage though, the engine seems to be quite healthy in general, which is no surprise. You don’t seem to drive short distances on a cold engine, that’s usually the main problem for these engines. I hope this can help you :) Kind regards from Germany!
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  18. I love that you redline it everyday. A man that enjoys his car.
    67
  19. It hugely depends on driving conditions, driving habits and driving distances. Ultra short driving distances, especially during winter are condensation heaven, and much more…
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  20. I've done this same test using the same lab with my 2014 Mazda CX-5. I run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20 and the lab has reported the oil is still plenty good at the 7.5k mile mark, which is about what I average per year in driving. The lab did say the Pennzoil Ultra Plat tests show it was more than capable of a 10k oil change interval in my Mazda. YMMV.
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  21. We started using oil analysis at work--we ran large format printing presses, the size of greyhound buses. Each print tower held about 55 gallons of oil, with multiple towers, so you could imagine how expensive oil changes could be. We wound up doubling or tripling oil change intervals.
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  22. The Yaris does not die
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  23. Thanks for the info. I have a 07 328xi and Ive been doing 7500 mile changes regularly. Im approaching the 300k mark as well.
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  24. Thank you for sharing this experience. FWIW I see no reason to ever omit a filter change when changing oil. It’s inexpensive and adds minimal additional effort to the project. My ten cents.
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  25. I've noticed rattling around 5k rpm...then I realized it was my keys/keychain
    52
  26. It's reassuring that they still cap the time interval at 1 year - if the car isn't driving far enough in a year to reach the oil change distance interval, it will be doing short and/or infrequent trips. I think this is why the Severe service schedules usually mention long periods of idling: you're racking up hours on the oil but it's not accounted for by the odometer.
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  27. 500miles? Keep that girlfriend. ❤
    52
  28. Thanks for adding the values in km’s and € as well :)
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  29. Noted: do not do business with Corbin.
    48
  30. Great video, thanks for sharing. For me oil and filter changes are cheap, engines are expensive, I so will continue with changing both at 10,000 km (6,200 miles) and using full synthetic (but I will run longer than 1 year). This approach certainly isn't optimal, but it is a safe 'no regrets' strategy IMO. That said, it's great to be able to compare your results, so thanks again for that.
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  31. Nice findings and good job preserving an e46 in great condition 👍️ Also 5w-30 seems to be good enough, I give synthetic 10w-40 to my e46 as it offeres better film strength and wear protection, as HTHS ~3.5 of 5w-30 is regarded to be on the edge (10W-40 HTHS ~4.4) and other benefits like higher oil pressure. The benefit of faster 'engine through oiling times' at engine start of 5w oil begins at -10°C and below to make a difference compared to 10w, if you live in an area where winters are cold. Funfact: There is a reputated german engine rebuild company who declines warranty, if 0w-20 is used in a rebuilt engine, although it is within BMW specifications.
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  32. Chemist here: You should send a control - that is a sample of unused portion of the same oil handled the same way. Also, take a sample of your oil and add known amounts of these elements (i.e. Ca, Fe, etc.) so you can blindly test the laboratories accuracy (this is called a Spiked Sample).
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  33. This whole oil issue seems to be an American thing. In sort, marketing. In EU the concern does not exist. My car was designed for servicing and oil changes every 20,000 miles (yes, that's right) - it's a German design mass market car from the GM group. How many times have I had to change the engine (not the oil)? Zero. How old is the car? Just over 20 yo. Does it run OK? Absolutely sweet. I didn't even know about this "keep changing the oil" US habit until I started watching YT... amazing!
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  34. a rare video where I can enjoy the content without feeling too much dragged.
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  35. My biggest takeaway from this is the time factor (6,12 mos. etc.) is far less of a factor for oil changes than we're all being led to believe. Only with a few exceptions, mileage is the main indicator. The Care Care Nut, who is quite popular, strongly believes 5K intervals are the way to go, especially with the new, lighter-weight oils but I believe that mileage is more important and this video reinforces my belief. Thanks!
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  36. The simple answer is to change your HIGH-QUALITY oil when it starts getting dark brown and before it gets black. Just check your warm oil on a white paper towel and change it before it gets black. Oil stands up these days, so after a year or even 10,000 miles, the oil itself may still test good, but high concentrations of carbon (microscopic sandpaper from blowby) will cause damage. A very tight engine driven gently, may still have golden oil after 5000 miles so why change it? If you drive harder, the oil might be dark brown at 3000 miles, so change it. A blind time or mileage change is unnecessary and ineffective. Why are you changing clean oil or why did you wait to change black oil? Why not change brown oil? See what I mean? Also, no need for all this flushing hype, as modern oils have detergents that keep your engine clean and your engine seals are not designed to be exposed to solvents of any kind. If you seldom drive a car, then moisture acidifying in your oil will become a problem. This is solved by driving it for 30 minutes once a month, to burn this moisture off. Idling in the driveway is better than nothing (unregistered car), but the car really needs to be driven.
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  37. In the Netherlands the long intervals are recommended. The intervals go as far as 30.000km, for my 2000 Peugeot 406 coupe V6. I can tell you it's a very bad idea, seeing the internals of some of these engines. My intervals on the dash are set at 15000k, but because i don't drive so much as my buisiness is from home, i do an oilchange every two years. That is well under 10000km. Never had any problems, the engine is like new inside. She has done around 300000km now.
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  38. I believe part of the 'myth' may have been true at one point, where crankcase breather systems were just a filter on the valve cover. Same deal with fuel in tanks, it HIGHLY depends on how much it breathes. Oxygen is a big killer for both, and both modern systems don't allow air to cycle in/out when it's sitting.
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  39. Since the engine was not flushed I'd say the last sample was that good thanks to the previous more frequent changes so I'd stick to a 5-6k max 7-7500mi I change the oil in my car tdi vw every 10k km it has 620 000km and runs very nicely according to other owners of the same car
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  40. My 2003 TDI has 10,000 mile oil changes in the service manual. I've changed it every 10k or 2 years if it's not been used much. Done this since owning the car in 2006 and stills runs fine, 155,000 miles. Engine and turbo still original and plenty of power. Heck it's still on it's original clutch too. Just to rub salt in to the 3,000 mile brigade, I've done the oil changes with a vacuum extraction pump since 2011. So the sump plug hasn't been removed in over 10 years. Yes oil is cheap and engines aren't... but that's still not an excuse to waste money and good engine oil.
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  41. 10-years is a good interval. I prefer not to ever do oil changes or oil filters and simply top up oil level when needed. Previous petrol Mercedes cars ran 250,000 and 137,000 miles with no oil changes and still were running smoothly when sold. Present BMW X5 diesel SUV no oil changes for 3-years. Heavily used on a daily basis yet still running smooth as silk.
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  42. Yep, 4-5 k on my Jeep, my 2011 SRT Challenger once a year right before winter storage, only drive 2k a year on it. I feel oil and filters are cheap.
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  43. Hello David....you are doing everything right, you will enjoy your BMW for a long time. Here in Germany, BMW is trying to recommend an interval of 20,000 km to the owners, which of course is complete nonsense, BMW knows very well that this means the early certain death of the engine, applies to Mercedes and Audi as well. Here we recommend an oil change every 10-15,000 km, or every 7000 km for short trips.
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  44. I bought a Shoei RF1400 in the summer of 2022. In October 2022, I was hit hard and fast from behind on I-44 between Springfield and Joplin Missouri. The car hit me so fast and so hard... it came right up through the tailpipe, bending the middle of the frame upwards, throwing me skyward and sideways off the highway. I don't know if I was rendered unconscious or not, it happened so fast. I found myself lying a few feet into the grass off the shoulder. My lower body was broken pretty bad (three months later, and I'm just now transitioning from a wheelchair to a walker), but somehow my head and shoulders were not injured! This helmet took a number of impacts, as it had damage in two or three locations (front and back). Somehow, God blessed me that this helmet protected me... I'm writing this review for Shoei and placing it in a number of popular online locations to show my thanks for the RF-1400! And thank you God! Additionally, this helmet was super comfortable and fit my head snug as a bug in a rug! (P.S. Don't ride your motorcycle on highways at night)
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  45. I'm planning on making it my first bike next week hopefully. It's suppose to be comfortable, and the added weight is suppose to make it more stable on the highways vs the ninja 400... I just want to cruise... but love the look of sport bikes. Good MPG too with a 4.5 gallon tank. I can't wait.
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  46. The 10,000 mile sample is interesting and I would guess that some of the lighter molecular weight fraction has been removed (leaks or combustion?). This would be one way to simultaneously get the flash point to drop and viscosity to increase. Running at very high temperatures may help to drive that fraction off too. My diesel uses full synthetic too and the recommended interval (7500 miles) felt too long as the oil was extreme thin and dirty. I was not able to measure surface tension (helps with lubricity) but I felt like the viscosity was just too low. Since then I have not let the interval go longer than 5000 miles. Before I retired from Chemical Engineering I worked for a company that made surfactants (dispersants) so I know a little bit about that chemistry. Basically, high temperature and oxygen will contribute to components breaking down in the oil. Thanks for sharing the results (had a couple of E39's BTW).
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  47. Always did my oil changes at 15.000km, then I bought my dream car, an MK5 R32 and started to do 10.000Km oil changes. I think this is the best service interval for daily use.
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  48. Very good review. My son has a cb500f and one of your other videos helped him do a chain and sprocket replacement. Just my two cents, I can’t get over how Americans see this as a beginner bike. We have it stuck in our heads that if it isn’t a liter bike or a cruiser over 1800ccs, then it’s a beginner bike. And although problem “think” they are fun to ride, they just aren’t very practical. But Hondas 500 bikes are very practical and very easy to ride. The 500f is so simple I like riding my sons bike instead of old VFR. Anyway, I did enjoy the CBR videos and hope to see more. And seeing you run the bike in the foothills of the coast range made me miss home.
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  49. 2024 and I have an 07 Yaris. 265K miles on this bad girl and she’s still loyal. Most people see a little bucket but it’s a testament of for good you treat your car your car will return the favor.
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  50. I have a 2003 BMW Z4 I bought brand new. I have changed my oil and filter every 7500 miles since new with Mobile 1 full synthetic 5W-30. At 112,000 miles I pulled the valve cover to see what it looked inside. Saw no obvious wear. Everything was clean with not a sign of any sludge. Timing chains and gears didn't appear to show any wear. Think I am good to go for as long as I want to drive it. Don't drive this car hard and it is always garaged. Been a great car.
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